Providing quality axolotl care means you need to be dedicated and passionate about seeing to the everyday health of your pet.
Axolotls are incredibly cute, unique, and interesting pets. They look stunning and are fascinating to watch, which has made them really popular in the pet trade.
Unfortunately, they are not nearly as simple to own as goldfish or guppies and require very specific environmental needs to be met. For starters, these unusual amphibians spend their lives in water and therefore need high-quality water that is within habitable parameters. They also require specific diets to thrive.
However, once you know how to care for an axolotl and you combine that knowledge with your passion for them, keeping them happy and healthy in captivity is a rewarding and enjoyable experience.
Read on to learn more about how to properly care for your axolotl!
Axolotls: A Natural History
Though they look a bit like fish, axolotls are actually a type of salamander originally from Mexico–more specifically, Mexico City. Their scientific name is Ambystoma mexicanum. They are also known as the Mexican walking fish or the Mexican salamander.
These strange animals are freshwater amphibians, which means they are naturally found in freshwater lakes. Unfortunately, they are only found in one lake (and occasionally its surrounding canals) in the wild today, Lake Xochimilco, due to habitat loss and are on the IUCN Red List of endangered species.
However, their popularity in the pet trade has helped somewhat to boost their numbers, at least in captivity. Today, they are fairly popular exotic pets, particularly amongst reptile and amphibian enthusiasts.
Because many axolotls sold as pets are wild-caught, you will need to do careful research on where you are buying your axolotl from to ensure you are buying from a reputable captive breeder rather than someone that is recklessly poaching them and affecting the wild population.
Because they originate from Mexico and are an endangered species, you will also need to check your state’s laws on owning these animals before you purchase them. Currently, there are only three states in the U.S. that do not have any bans or regulations on the import of exotic species.
Size and Appearance Overview
Axolotls typically reach between 6 and 18 inches long, with males being slightly longer and females being slightly shorter and wider.
Their strange appearance is because they are perpetually stuck in the larval stage of growth and they do not go through full metamorphosis. The waters they are native to notably lack high levels of iodine, which would normally trigger them to morph into their “adult” form. Due to this, they retain their gills well into adulthood! Behind their wide heads, they have gills and frills that are used to respire.
Interestingly, axolotls also retain their tails and caudal fins from their earlier stages that would usually be lost as other amphibians grow and develop. They’re also able to regenerate lost limbs and tails!
The typical axolotl’s body is somewhat round and pudgy, with four very thin, long legs that stick out to the sides. Attached to each foot is a set of very long, webbed toes.
All in all, they have a very strange yet charming appearance, and their faces are quite adorable and “derpy” thanks to their permanent, polite grin.
Behavior and Temperament Overview
Both as pets and in the wild, axolotls are not overly aggressive or shy in nature. They are surprisingly hardy and generally very happy with most environments that you provide them with, as long as they have the essentials like food, shelter, and ample room to swim about as they please.
When they are younger, though, they can be prone to biting whatever they can fit into their mouths. Young axolotls are also more fragile and usually more skittish than adults.
Though axolotls can’t be handled much, they greatly enjoy the mental stimulation of being around and watching people from their enclosure.
Axolotl Enclosure Setup
Because they are entirely aquatic amphibians, axolotls must be housed in a safe, sturdy enclosure with plenty of water to keep them moist so they can breathe. Fortunately, setting up a proper axolotl habitat is fairly simple.
Enclosure Type
As we touched on above, axolotls are completely aquatic, which means they need a long, fairly large tank to give them a lot of ‘floor’ space. There does not need to be any terrestrial area for them, as they will not use it; they must stay submerged in water.
A sturdy glass or plexiglass aquarium or tank is ideal. The tank should be at least 20 gallons, and bigger is always better if you can afford and manage it! Anything smaller than 20 gallons is too small, as axolotls need lots of space to feel comfortable. What’s more, they make a lot of mess, while swimming, eating, and pooping, which affects the water quality very quickly in a small tank.
Additionally, the tank must have a lid that is secure because axolotls have been known to “jump” high enough that they jump straight out of the tank! A lid will also keep any dust or debris from getting in the water.
Substrate
The floor of your axolotl’s enclosure should ideally have substrate, though this isn’t always necessary. There are three routes you can go in terms of a substrate.
1. Bare
You do not necessarily need any substrate in an axolotl tank. You need plenty of caves and hidey holes for your axolotl to retreat to; however, you do not always need a substrate.
The main issue with having no substrate comes in when your axolotl cannot grip the floor with their slick, wet feet in order to move comfortably. However, you can counter this by providing them with a few extra caves, flower pots, PVC pipes, and very large rocks they can grab onto.
2. Sand
Sand is one of the most popular substrates for axolotls. You should never use gravel in an axolotl’s enclosure because they will try to eat it, which will cause digestive impaction.
If you want a fine substrate, you should use sand instead of gravel. Sand is small enough that if your axolotl does end up eating it, the small particles will pass through their system without causing a blockage.
Sand is also the perfect substrate to use if you want to include live plants in your axolotl’s tank to provide them with a more natural environment and help yourself with the nitrogen cycle of the tank.
3. Large Stones
If you are worried about using sand or want a completely different aesthetic, then use large (sanitized) stones and cover the base of the tank. The stones must be larger than your axolotl’s head to avoid them trying to swallow the stones.
Another important thing to note is the stones should not be glow-in-the-dark, as the chemicals used to treat them can be released into the water and into your axolotl’s skin and poison them. Additionally, having glow-in-the-dark substrate means the tank is never truly dark, which will interrupt your axolotl’s sleep cycle and affect their health in the long run.
Decorations
How you fill your axolotl’s tank with decorations, hides, plants, and enriching surfaces will greatly impact their lives and overall health. A plain, boring tank with no decor or shelter provides no enrichment and can potentially stress out your axolotl.
Ideally, your axolotl should be able to get from one side of the tank to the other without being exposed. This is to ensure they can regulate their stress levels by hiding and relaxing in private whenever they wish.
You can purchase caves, stone perches, hollow logs, and other water-safe interesting decorations to include in your axolotl’s tank. Additionally, you can use PVC pipes, garden pots, and larger rocks and branches that you have found in your backyard.
Keep in mind if you are using items that you have found, they need to be sanitized and sterilized correctly before they are introduced to your tank. Rocks and wood should be boiled for 10 minutes and then dried out in an oven at a low temperature for a couple of hours until they are bone dry.
This process kills off any microorganisms on the rock or branch and neutralizes any sap or natural oils in the organic matter.
Plants
In addition to the above kinds of decorations, you can include a variety of plants in your axolotl’s enclosure!
Fake plants do not require any special lighting, and they provide a nice aesthetic to the tank as well as extra coverage for your axolotl. Just make sure the fake plants are safe for aquariums and will not leach toxins into the water.
Live plants, on the other hand, are beautiful as well as functional, but they require a bit of extra maintenance to look great. Like fake plants, they provide your axolotl with additional places to hide. However, unlike fake plants, live ones will look and feel more natural, and they help maintain the water quality of the tank! Some good live plants to include in the tank are anubias, Horwood, and java moss.
Water Quality
Axolotls are freshwater amphibians. They are very sensitive to water quality. Remember, axolotls spend their entire lives in water, and they cannot escape their tank to another water source if they sense something is wrong. It is up to you to ensure the water quality is optimized at all times.
Axolotls need to have water that falls within a specific set of parameters. These amphibians respire (breathe) through their gills and their skin. Therefore, if something is wrong with the water, it will quickly make its way into your axolotl’s body and make them ill.
If the water quality falls outside of the following ranges, your axolotl will get very sick, and its lifespan will be shortened. The following settings need to be maintained at all times for your axolotl to survive and thrive in their tank:
As you can see, the above parameters are very specific, and any deviation can affect your axolotl’s health seriously. Maintaining proper water temperature, pH, and quality is one of the most important parts of your axolotl’s care.
You will need a water quality testing kit to measure and monitor these levels in your axolotl’s enclosure. Before you ever bring your axolotl home and place them in their new tank, you must carefully test the water. Waiting too long and adjusting it later will stress out your axolotl and potentially make them very ill.
In addition to the water quality testing kit, you will need to have a
The water temperature should be stable, and you can control this by controlling the ambient air temperature or adding a heating or cooling element to your filter or tank hood.
Lighting
Axolotls do not need specialized full-spectrum lighting. In fact, if their lighting is too strong or harsh, your axolotl will suffer from undue stress.
Generally, it’s best to simply use a soft LED light to light your tank for 12 hours of the day. Though they don’t need any particular type of lighting, your axolotl needs a consistent day and night cycle–12 hours on, 12 hours off.
Do not leave lights on for 24 hours a day, as this will cause them stress and prevent them from being able to sleep comfortably. If you’re worried about not being able to switch the lights consistently or forgetting to change them from time to time, consider buying a timer for them.
Keep in mind if you have live plants in your tank, you may need special lights for them to photosynthesize. Just make sure the lights do not change the temperature of the water.
Axolotl Enclosure Maintenance
Though they don’t seem like it, axolotls make a lot of mess! As their waste enters the water and starts to decompose, the water quality will change. This means you will need to keep a very careful eye on the quality of the water and waste level.
Test your water every two days to make sure the levels of ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, pH balance, and other contaminants are within the above-mentioned parameters.
What You Will Need
You will need the following to set up and maintain your axolotl’s tank:
- A filter to keep the water clean and oxygenated with a low flow function to as not to create a current
- Clean tap or distilled water depending on the quality of water in your area
- A gravel siphon if you are using sand or stones as a substrate
- An algae scraper to clean the sides of the tank
- A water testing kit like the one mentioned earlier
- Water conditioner
- A dedicated “water out” bucket
- A dedicated “water in” bucket
You will need to clean your axolotl’s tank once a week and do a partial water replacement. To do this, you will need to remove 20% to 30% of the tank’s water and replace it with new, clean water.
How to Clean an Axolotl Tank
Follow this step-by-step guide to clean your axolotl’s tank:
- Prepare the new water the night before you want to do a full tank clean.
- In the dedicated “water in” bucket, add the appropriate amount of water you will need to add to the enclosure plus a little more.
- Add your water conditioner to this water.
- The following morning, take readings and make sure your new water matches the water quality parameters mentioned earlier.
- Take your algae scraper and gently clean the sides of the tank.
- If you need to, remove any of the decorations and remove any algae build-up with some of the extra water you have prepared. Usually, a simple scrub is all that is necessary. Do not use chemicals!
- Turn off your filter and remove the filter media to give it a quick scrub and rinse in the water. Do not use chemicals.
- Use the gravel cleaner to clean your substrate.
- Now you can siphon the water out of the tank. Make sure your filter and any heating or cooling elements are turned off so they do not run dry or overheat.
- Double-check that your new water is at the right temperature to add to the tank.
- Gently pour the new water into the tank, and turn your filter and elements back on.
Cycling Your Water
Water straight out of the bottle or tap is not appropriate for your axolotl. You first need to cycle the water. This means you need to set up the tank several weeks before your axolotl comes home!
Cycling water can seem complicated at first, but it is a necessary process. If you do not cycle your water properly, then there will be ammonia, chlorine, and nitrites present, which are all toxic to your axolotl. You cannot short-cut cycling your axolotl’s water or skip the process because your axolotl will die.
To cycle your water, you will need to first run the tank with the filter on. Over the next couple of days, add some fish food flakes. As the flakes decompose, they will raise the levels of ammonia in the tank.
Once the ammonia is at a certain concentration, bacteria will build up that process ammonia and produce nitrites. At this point, you can stop adding the fish flakes.
The nitrite levels will continue to increase. If they start to decrease before nitrates are present, then start adding the flakes again.
Once the nitrite content is at a certain level, bacteria that process nitrites and produce nitrates will grow.
Once the levels of ammonia and nitrites are at 0ppm and the nitrate levels are at 0ppm to 10ppm, you can introduce your axolotl to its enclosure!
Axolotl Diet
Axolotls are strict carnivores! This means they do not eat plant matter. More specifically, they primarily eat a variety of small aquatic insects, worms, and crustaceans.
Babies should be fed every day. Appropriate food items include small daphnia and insect larvae.
Juveniles should be fed every other day. Appropriate food items include larger daphnia and insect larvae as well as cut-up blood worms and nightcrawlers. Full-sized bloodworms and nightcrawlers are usually too large for juvenile axolotls to eat safely, so they should always be cut into smaller portions.
Adults should be fed every third day. Appropriate food items include bloodworms, tubifex, nightcrawlers, tadpoles, and guppies.
Always gut load your feeder items between 12 and 24 hours before you feed them to your axolotl. To prevent choking and impaction, be sure all food is appropriately sized, or smaller than the width of the space between your axolotl’s eyes.
FAQs About Axolotl Care
How long do axolotls live?
Axolotls live between 10 and 17 years in captivity! This is a very long time and requires a serious commitment from you, as their food and water quality needs to be monitored carefully daily.
Can I handle my axolotl?
Axolotls are soft-bodied amphibians and do not have any true bones. Therefore, they have nothing that is structurally protecting their bodies, which makes handling a dangerous task.
Also, like all other amphibians, axolotls have permeable skin, which means any chemicals or toxins that come into contact with their skin will enter their bodies and can make them very sick.
Therefore, handling should not happen at all, aside from when it’s absolutely necessary, such as when transferring them to another enclosure or container. Axolotls don’t particularly enjoy being handled anyway, as it is very stressful for them.
Can I keep axolotls together in the same tank?
In general, axolotls are not group animals. They live alone in the wild. They are also very opportunistic carnivores and will nip and bite anything they can get their mouths on, especially when they are young.
Because of this, axolotls should not cohabitate with other species of fish or amphibians.
However, it is possible to house adult axolotls that are the same size together in the same tank, provided you increase the size of the tank by at least 10 gallons every time you add a new axolotl.
You’ll also need to add more resources like shelter and food to prevent any stress and competition. Finally, it’s important to closely monitor the axolotls for the first few days they’re cohabitated to ensure they settle in and get along well and don’t end up fighting or injuring each other.
Swimming Away…
Properly caring for axolotls requires a decent amount of effort and a lot of commitment from you as their owner. Fortunately, they are quite rewarding pets to own because they are very active and live for a fair amount of time, which means you get to bond with them for many years!
However, keep in mind axolotls are display amphibians and should never be handled unless it is necessary. Still, even though you cannot handle them, you can still enjoy their presence and unique personalities and watch them live their lives in the most adorably clumsy and silly way possible!
